Joan Ransley

A stroll along The Stray, two hundred acres of beautiful common land that flank the southern edge of Harrogate, makes a sedate approach to the Hotel du Vin. The front elevation of the hotel is rather grand. A terrace of eight Georgian town houses converted and run as a hotel since the 1930’s.  The entrance is through a Palladian style door which leads into a spacious atrium illuminated by sunlight pouring through large, well proportioned windows. The decor is dark with comfortable leather chairs, lots of oak furniture and displays of beautiful wine bottles. “Of course, the name says it all. This is an establishment that prides itself in serving very good quality wine” I remind myself. continue reading ›

I know Wallingford well. I was born and brought up here. It has the remains of a motte and bailey castle, a Kine Croft, a Hither Croft and at the last count 13 pubs. What I hadn’t realised was one of these pubs has become a very good restaurant and it is just around the corner from where my mother lives. Tired and hungry after my long drive from Ilkley in West Yorkshire, I popped my head around the door of the Partridge Inn and asked if they had a table. continue reading ›

It’s spring and wild garlic has been showing in Yorkshire for a couple of weeks. It is a joy to see it used here at the Star, a low slung, thatched, ancient village pub in Harome, North Yorkshire to flavour freshly made warm bread which I used to dip into my starter.

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Phnom Penh is a foodtrippers dream. Huge food markets are lined with stalls filled deep with all the fresh herbs and spices a cook could possibly want. Great bunches of lemon grass, fresh turmeric, fragrant saw tooth mint and even ginseng, used here in yellow and red curry paste. continue reading ›

You have to have a strong stomach to eat at Bocca di Luppo, a smart Italian restaurant on Archer Street in the heart of London’s West End. On this menu the devil is in the detail where the oddities of Italy’s farmyards are writ small among better know specialities.  continue reading ›

A well preserved French colonial house stands elegantly in Chan Cam in the French Quarter of Hanoi. It was designed by the architect who designed the Opera and it was once used as the Spanish embassy. Rumour has it that ‘Uncle Ho’ used to visit the house. Now it is a restaurant.

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Cha Ca La Vong restaurant in the Old Quarter of Hanoi is eulogized by Alastair Hendy in his wonderful book Food and Travels: Asia. Indeed Alastair has included a delicious recipe for the eponymous fish, noodle and dill dish which is an honor to this eating house.

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The Ethiopian way of preparing coffee is spectacular. The roasting beans are brought to the table sizzling as they lay on a colourful, clay plate for dinners to imbibe their intoxicating aroma. They are then taken away, ground and mixed with a subtle blend of cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg. Boiling water is added and the coffee returns to the table, served from a shapely, traditional pot called a jebena and dispensed into tiny bowls. Burning incense accompanies the coffee to complete the exotic scene. The combination of coffee with cardamom is sublime and a few grains of sugar heighten the flavour.

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Joe McDermott, the chef and owner of the gastro pub, the Ilkley Moor Vaults is sitting reading a book by the chef Simon Hopkinson while finishing his lunch.

A freshly-baked loaf of sour dough bread sits on the bar and after his warm greeting I ask to try a slice. It is very good -made from a mix of rye, wholemeal and white organic flour – a crisp crust with an open texture. continue reading ›

Link to my piece in Notebook