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Inside story of cooking food with an outside edge

Hanging on the wall in the bar of a 300-year-old pub in Crayke, North Yorkshire, is a coloured engraving which gives the pub its name – The Durham Ox.

The original Durham Ox was born in 1796 in County Durham and was a freak. It was an interbred, castrated short horned bull and grew to one and three quarter tons in weight. By comparison, today’s beef cattle rarely weigh more than half a ton. Its owner John Day, a travelling showman, toured the North of England and the ox became a celebrity.

The Durham Ox

Today, the Durham Ox is a comfortable, welcoming pub. Its owners Michael and Sasha Ibbotson dispense old fashioned hospitality. They use locally sourced seasonal produce and have won two awards this year – AA Pub of the Year and Freehouse of the Year.

As well as overseeing the kitchen and a private dining room, Michael, a trained chef, will cook for you at home. His favourite at this time of year is to cook outside and he is not alone. According to this month’s Gardening Which?, we will light about 90 million barbecues this summer.

“But with our whimsical weather, menus must be simple and flexible” says Michael.

His advice is to start with Pimm’s. “Pour a measure of Pimm’s and a dribble of gin over ice and add ginger ale or soda water. The ratio should be one third Pimm’s to two thirds mixer. Add a slice of cucumber, lime, orange, lemon and, either mint or borage.”

Michael also advises: “Just because you are eating outside don’t abandon good cooking principles – use the best ingredients you can afford and keep things clean.”

But should you cook with a charcoal or gas barbecue?

According to Gardening Which?, their testers preferred sausages cooked on gas which is safer and quicker to use. It takes 10 minutes to heat a gas barbecue compared to 45 for charcoal.

Interestingly, the price of Which?’s Best Buy gas barbecue is the same as the charcoal – £99.

Recipes

"Durham Ox" Burger and Salsa

“Durham Ox” Burger

Burgers should be made with good quality minced steak. Too much fat in the mince and it will drip into the BBQ and catch fire.

Serves 4

  • 500g best quality minced beef steak
  • 2 tbsp shallots, finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp pickled gherkin, finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs
  • 1 organic egg, beaten
  • 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
  • Freshly ground salt and black pepper

Mix the above ingredients together and divide the mixture into 8 portions. Shape each portion into a ball and flatten to 2cm thick. Cook for 3-5 minutes each side before turning over. Serve in a bread roll.

Tomato Salsa

This is delicious with burgers or fish. It is also good as a dip.

  • 8 ripe tomatoes
  • 1 red or green chilli
  • 2 small red onions
  • 50ml white wine vinegar
  • 100ml olive oil
  • 1 tbsp caster sugar
  • 2 tbsp fresh mint, chopped
  • 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
  • Freshly ground salt and black pepper

Roughly chop all the ingredients or pulse gently in a food process processor, to retain a crunchy texture. Allow to stand for 30 minutes before serving.

“Durham Ox” Prawn Cocktail

A simple, classic dish with a twist that everyone loves.

Serves 4

  • 400g cooked prawns (shelled) eg Atlantic Prawns frozen at sea
  • 4 cooked langoustines/large prawns (with shell) for the garnish

The salad

  • Iceberg lettuce, shredded
  • ½ cucumber, peeled and diced
  • 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and finely diced
  • 8 cherry tomatoes, chopped
  • Lemon salad dressing
  • Juice of 1 lemon, salt and pepper and a splash of virgin olive oil

Marie Rose Sauce

  • 200ml good quality mayonnaise
  • 25ml brandy
  • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 2 drops of Tabasco sauce
  • 4 tbsp Heinz tomato ketchup
  • Freshly ground salt and black pepper
  • Juice of 1 lemon

Mix the salad ingredients with the lemon dressing. Place some salad in a glass and top with the peeled prawns. Mix the ingredients for the Marie Rose sauce and dribble a dessertspoon over the prawns. Top with a large prawn or langoustine.

Salmon Parcels

This method can be used to cook other fish, for example, thick cod steaks, halibut, scallops and large whole prawns.

Serves 4

  • 4 salmon fillets (150g each)
  • 4 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • ½ red chilli, deseeded and chopped
  • 1 tsp minced lemon grass or ginger
  • 4 tsp olive oil
  • Freshly ground salt and black pepper
  • 8 A4 sized sheets of foil

Place two sheets of foil on top of each other. Place the fish in the centre of the foil and scatter over the garlic and lemon grass. Dribble with olive oil and season well. Bring the edges of the foil together and fold several times to form a sealed envelope around the fish. Cook over the barbecue for 10 minutes. Open parcels and scatter with chopped coriander or parsley.

Garlic and Herb BBQ Potatoes

The potatoes can be kept warm on the barbecue and improve the longer they are left. Remember to squeeze the cooked garlic from the papery skin for a delicious treat.

Serves 4

  • 500g new potatoes, washed
  • 1 onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 head of garlic, cloves separated but not peeled
  • 1 red pepper, deseeded and diced
  • 2-3 twigs of woody herbs eg rosemary, thyme
  • Ground sea salt
  • Olive oil

Par boil the new potatoes for 5 minutes, drain and place in a roasting tin. Add chopped onion, whole garlic cloves, red pepper, rosemary and a light sprinkle of ground sea salt. Dribble with olive oil and cook over the barbecue for about 15 minutes.

Michael’s top tips for cooking outside

  1. If using charcoal, start the barbecue well in advance with kindling so you cook over hot coals rather than flames. Avoid barbecue lighter fluid – it can taint food.
  2. Cook sausages in advance by boiling them in water for five minutes. Then brown on the barbecue. Chicken can be started off in the oven.
  3. Cut fat off a steak after cooking, as the fat helps meat cook.
  4. Resist the temptation to keep turning food. Allow meat/fish to brown on one side and then turn.
  5. Be generous with the size of steaks. They should be at least 2cm thick.
  6. The best seasoning for meat is cracked pepper and sea salt. Allow meat to rest before eating.
  7. Have a tray close by to keep food warm and a water spray in case of fire.
  8. If using special wood chips e.g. apple, enclose the smoke with a lid so food develops a smoked flavour.
  9. Mix salad leaves with lemon juice. This keeps them fresh.