“Look there’s a beaver” announced Nick, my partner. I saw a line growing along the lake. A blunt snout and distinctive paddle shaped tail clinched the sighting.
Delighted I watched and listened to the silence. No amount of meditation could take me to such a place.As we rowed along the river we saw evidence of this clever rodent. Pencil like stubs along the bank and a chaotic domed lodge constructed from mud and sticks.
We stayed one night in a hut at Lintulempi, Finland, just south of the Arctic Circle. Inside was a wood burning stove, plenty of logs and bunks. Outside were an eco loo and a pit to make a campfire.
Enormous nesting boxes were fixed to some nearby trees. I visualised a snowy owl swooping across the lake in mid winter when temperatures plummet to -20 C.
We built a campfire, cooked supper and sat on seats hewn from logs. A fisherman drew up his boat and talked about hunting elk, fishing and gathering berries. His dog had a GPS collar to help locate the quarry.
We were 18km from Arola Farm our comfortable base run by ex dairy farmers Helena and Eero Seppanen. The farm abuts Martinselkonen National Park, a Tolkeinesque wilderness of ancient woodland, swamps and rivers. Well marked tracks and boardwalks made trekking a joy.
What did I love about staying here? It was mid July and the beauty of the wilderness through the ‘white nights’ was astonishing.
I loved seeing bears, elk, reindeer, a red throated diver and a capercaillie for real, not vicariously through a television.
The vivid colours of ink blue bilberries, yellow cloudberries and red lichen set again emerald sphagnum moss were a surprise.
Experiencing a traditional smoke sauna in the woods and standing naked in soft rain to cool down – unforgettable. Helena advised “this is the best kind of sauna” as she lay bunched birch twigs on the steps.
Arola does, however, bear the scars of war. In 1939, 20 000 Russian troops were sent here as part of Stalin’s plan to conquer Finland. They did not succeed but they are remembered to this day.
At Arola we gained an appreciation of how important a degree of self sufficiency is. Helena and Eero do not play at being hunter gatherers. Their survival depends on it. Their ability to hunt, preserve meat and fish, grow and cook fruit and vegetables, make bread and cook simple things like porridge are all life savers when temperatures plummet and a visit to the supermarket is a month away. We take food security for granted in the UK. A trip to Arola is a reminder that it is probably wise not to.
To get there
We flew Finnair (www.finnair.com) Manchester to Helsinki and on to Kuusamo. £440 per adult.
Two bed apartment, meals, bear safari, smoke sauna and transfer from Kuusamo Airport £880 for two.
Contact
Helena Sappanen, Arolantie 5, 89920, Ruhtinansalmi, Finland. Tel +358 50 5189775