A capacious, partially glazed dome, studded with tiny sparkling white halogen lights suggests we have walked into a wondrous planetarium. But maybe we are in an airship? The panelled cupola is magnificent and I look up in wonder. My eyes drop slightly to the meticulously painted upper balcony of one of the country’s finest Victorian buildings - the Grade I listed Leeds Corn Exchange. I am in awe. Designed by Cuthbert Broddick in 1861 it is an architectural gem. Pleasing symmetry, original masonry, iron work and beautifully restored Yorkshire stone flagged floors. Painted in soft, coordinated heritage hues and surprisingly warm on this bitterly cold January day it is welcoming place to enjoy brunch, lunch, dinner or even a conference. There are state of the art meeting rooms here. The magnificent 13,000 square space no longer provides trading cubicles for corn but like the best buildings has adapted to changing times and become Anthony Flinn’s gastronomic emporium. This talented Leeds based chef has created a theatre for eating drinking and buying beautiful food and wine. Leeds has never seen anything like it.
Centre stage is the brasserie situated in an open space to be found down a flight of steps. Comfortable, stylish but a little bit empty. But before we claim our table we meander around the converted archway cellars. Beautiful, original, naked orange brick archways fronted with glass curtain doors look smart. First stop the artisan Bakery, Patisserie and chocolate shop which makes produce for all of Anthony’s outlets. The display does not beat Yorkshire’s great bakery, chocolatier, patisserie - Bettys. Anthony could set the benchmark a little higher here. But it’s not bad and I would certainly buy a loaf. Then there is a ham and cheese shop. It looks great. There must only be a handful of environmentally controlled cheese rooms in the country. And Anthony’s has one. Rows of unctuous, oozing and interesting specimens lie seductively on the shelves and can be viewed through a glass frontage with a hermetically sealed door. There is also a cosy cafe that runs through three of the cellar archways. Just the thing for a quick lunch time liaison. So the stage is set and we make our way to lunch.
The waiter appears quickly to tell us the pig cheek is off. I don’t eat much meat so I am not that bothered. But I ask “why?” “It’s a skilled bit of butchering and the butcher is off today” the tall, effete young man explains in a pleasant informative way. I do like waiters who know a bit about the whys and wherefores of what they are serving.
I have already decided what I am going to eat. Black spaghetti, roasted baby squid with garlic oil. The side dishes look interesting. So I select one - not exactly to go with what I have chosen but because it sounds so - up my street - carrot and ginger puree. I thought the colours might all go well together and they do. Black and bright orange on a plate look stunning. “And how did they make that puree true to sweet young carrots and zingy ginger?” Time to ask the waiter a question again. But where is he now?
The black spaghetti arrived - “how do they coil it so neatly?”- topped with a tiny nest of mustardy micro greens. The spaghetti was al dente and the squid cooked beautiful but where was the garlic oil? Instead it seems, somebody just spilled the cream pot on the lot and far too salty. This was not a good way to finish such a subtle dish. But I loved the pureed carrot and ginger and so I made my own sauce out of that. I think Anthony would have seen it as an improvement. The wine was exquisite. A cool, grassy French Sauvignon Blanc served in a gorgeous tall perfectly polished glass. Pud was a very good pear and bramble crumble with a homely fresh custard. The prices are good here. You can choose either small or large portions of many of the dishes priced accordingly.
There is something on the menu for everyone - from roast sea bream with spicy tomato couscous and wilted spinach to Cumberland sausage. This is an all day place. Discrete, comfortable and if you want to just drink coffee you can. It’s so big you can get lost in here. The perfect place to either write a book or read one. Which reminds me - the other place this beautiful building is reminiscent of is the reading room at the heart of the British Museum. How classy is that for this otherwise workaday part of Leeds?