Sweet cicely is a hedgerow herb which grows prolifically in cool, shady places. In Yorkshire it's in full bloom and it seems a pity not to make the most of it. It has a lacy leaf which is a delicate anise flavour. It reminds me of the taste and texture of chervil.

Sweet cicely also has a remarkable property as a flavour enhancer making sharp tasting fruit like rhubarb appear sweeter. As I was picking sweet cicely this morning on the banks of the River Wharfe I accidentally gathered some wild garlic leaves in the same bouquet. I tasted both together and they were good flavour friends. So there is an idea for a wild salad mix. But before that why not try this light fresh buttermilk pudding. It can be made in a mould and turned out. But leaving it to set in a glass seems simpler. Either way it is delicious.

Sweet cicely

Buttermilk, rhubarb and sweet cicely puddings

Makes 4

Ingredients

250ml double cream

250ml buttermilk

30g caster sugar

1 strip of lemon zest

4 gelatine leaves

½ tsp vanilla essence

400g rhubarb

2 tbsp sweet cicely chopped

100g caster sugar

Method

Place cream, buttermilk 30g caster sugar and lemon zest in a pan and warm gently until sugar has melted – do not allow the cream to boil. Remove from the heat.

Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water. After five minutes, squeeze out water and stir into warm cream mixture. Stir in the vanilla essence.

Remove the lemon zest from the cream. Pour flavoured buttermilk and cream into wine glasses or moulds and place in the fridge until set – about 2 hours.

Cut the rhubarb into delicate 1cm cross sectional slices, place in a saucepan with the remaining caster sugar and sweet cicely. Cover and cook gently for 5 minutes until soft. Leave to cool.

Serve puddings with the rhubarb and scatter with sprigs of sweet cicely.